PETER LUGER STEAK HOUSE

The act of eating a rich, thick cut of beef is something so primal and testosterone-charged. And a steakhouse, by its very definition, is all about the beef-- sumptuous gorgeous, marbled cuts, rich in protein, full of juice-- where no-holds-barred cuts like a Porterhouse or Strip Sirloin sit atop the pantheon of steak dishes. A classic steak house with a history that goes back to 1897 (though it changed hands along the way)-- Peter Luger sticks to the basics of aged beef and staple side dishes of potatoes and vegetables.

This no-frills restaurant is a local landmark where menus aren't offered unless asked for, waiters provide friendly though matter-of-fact services, and the dining rooms-- with its exposed beams and worn furniture-- are about as basic as can be for a restaurant that's among the best in New York City.

Yet it's so good that, even though it's just over the bridge in Brooklyn, Peter Luger provides the model that sets the style for other steakhouses. The dry-aged Porterhouse-- butter-painted slabs that arrive on sizzling plates-- adorned with sides such as German fried Potatoes, Onion Rings (for two), and creamed Spinach (for two). Start with a salad of thick-cut beefy tomatoes and sweet onions, or a crisp Caesar Salad with grilled bacon so thick it's like a ham steak.

A temple for beef eaters--no apologies or mercy for vegetarians--Peter Luger is the kind of place that transforms the New York Porterhouse Steak into something more than a meal-- it's a gustatory icon.

178 Broadway at Driggs Avenue, Brooklyn
718-387-7400