welcome to the fifty best spirits of 2004

 

              The Fifty Best   Presents

 

Wine Enthusiast Magazine
50 Best Spirits of 2004

Page 1  - COGNAC & ARMAGNAC

Frapin VIP XO
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France; Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, FL)
40% abv,  $159.  96100
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
Opening aroma is assertive as zesty notes of pine, oak and parchment dominate; aeration serves to enhance the oak by introducing a fine caramel/toffee component. Palate entry is fruity, almost jammy and sweet; at midpalate, the smooth, satiny, creamy texture provides one of the highlights along with beguiling flavors of cocoa, chocolate cake frosting, buttercream and walnut. Concludes elegantly. Nothing less than one of the greatest grape brandies I’ve ever tasted.

   

Delamain Cognac  

Delamain Pale & Dry XO
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France; Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY)
40% abv,  $77.  9095
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
Early nosing passes detect nuances of old flowers, parchment and black raisins; aeration encourages spice, old oak and fabric. Palate entry is gloriously rich, fruity, resiny and clean; at midpalate, there are multilayered tastes of maple, palm oil, sap, light toffee, marzipan. Ends concentrated, oily, viscous, sweet and oaky.

 

Hine XO
Fine Champagne Cognac
(France; Cruzan, Ltd., West Palm Beach, FL)
40% abv,  $100.  9095
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
Displays sophisticated aromas of lanolin, cream, light oaky resin, pine nuts, light caramel (like English toffee) and the early stages of rancio. Palate entry is creamy, medium-rich and sweet; at mid-palate, the flavor profile expands to include sautéed almonds, bacon fat and sweet oak. Ends in a lush, sweet style.

  Hine Antique Cognac

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Jean Fillioux X.O.
Réserve Grande Champagne
1er Cru du Cognac
(France; M.H.W., Ltd., Manhasset, NY)
44% abv,  $85.  9095
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
The opening whiffs pick up luscious aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon and white raisins; further aeration introduces traces of hard cheese, oak/vanillin, dried fruit, black pepper and almond paste. At palate entry the early-on taste includes nuts and buttercream; the viscous texture and nut butter/oaky/maple-like flavor is highlighted at midpalate. Finishes regally without any alcohol heat and plenty of lip-smacking sautéed almond. In a word, scrumptious.

Château de Laubade 1941
Bas Armagnac
(France; Baron François, Ltd., New York, NY)
40% abv,  $460.  96100
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
Semisweet aroma leaps forward emitting toasty, almost smoky fragrances of campfire, charcoal, pipe tobacco, blue cheese and rancio. Taste is elegant, refined and supple, showing mature tastes of oak, marshmallow, honey, oloroso Sherry, black tea and coffee.

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Dartigalongue 1954
50 Year Old Bas Armagnac
“Celebration Collection”
(France; CVI Brands, San Carlos, CA)
41% abv,  $417.  9095
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
The initial aroma offers integrated woody/cocoa notes; following aeration mature, resiny, off-dry oaky scents are found. At palate entry the dry to off-dry taste is chocolaty and cocoa-like; at midpalate there’s a rush of oak followed by lush flavors of prunes, walnut butter and honey. Finishes sweet, concentrated and oaky.

Duc de Loussac XO
Bas Armagnac
(France; Baron François, Ltd., New York, NY)
40% abv,  $45.  9095
SUPERB / Highly Recommended
Bouquet offers tight, semisweet, toffee-covered apple and wood resin fragrances. Flavor is taut, sweet and moderately oily. Finish is long, pleasingly sour, oily and nut-like. A beauty.

 

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Coeur de Lion 1963
Calvados Pays d’Auge
(France; Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY)
42% abv,  $310.  96100
CLASSIC / Highest Recommendation
Apple peel-like scents greet you early on; further time in the glass reveals much deeper, more profound aromas that resemble milk chocolate, cream and cotton. Taste is clean, acidic and sap-like, then at midpalate the flavor turns slightly sweeter as if the apples were harvested a day before full ripeness. Simply one of the best vintage Calvados I’ve sampled.

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