welcome to the fifty best wines of 2004

                 Presents

Page 3

21   Limerick Lane 2002
Collins Vineyard
Zinfandel
(Russian River Valley);  $26. 
A great Zin, rich and opulent. Floods the mouth with briary blackberry, blueberry, cherry, chocolate and pepper flavors that just take over the palate. Yet the wine is dry and balanced, with firm, ripe tannins. One of the best Zins of the year.

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22   Antinori 2001
Villa Antinori
(Toscana);  $23. 
An excellent blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The bouquet is loaded with sweet fruit, lushness and a deft dollop of oak. A masculine yet bright wine, with cassis, cherry and the works. Finishes fresh, with chocolate notes. A value in its price range.

23   Hewitt 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford);  $75. 
An inaugural release from Chalone Wine Group, and an important one. Possesses the hallmarks of greatness, from the subtle but complex mingling of cassis, cherry, herb, tobacco, mint and dark chocolate flavors to the fabulously ripe, sweet tannins. Big and sturdy yet nuanced, this wine is gorgeous now and should last for many years in the cellar.

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24   Castello Romitorio 1999
Brunello di Montalcino;  $59. 
A glorious Brunello, one overflowing with the scents of leather, tree bark, cherry tomato, and black cherry. One taste confirms the nose, and at every checkpoint it’s full and rewarding. With its huge wingspan, there’s flavor and texture at every turn. Hold for 3–10 years.

25   St. Hallett 2000
Old Block Shiraz
(Barossa Valley); $54. 
Nose has beautiful, permeating pine-needle, mocha and meaty aromas. In the mouth it boasts chewy tannins, cassis fruit and slatelike accents. Finishes long; a sexy wine overall, with a beautiful, mouthcoating feel.

26   Weingut Emmerich Knoll 2002
Loibner Ried Loibenberg
Riesling Smaragd
(Wachau);   $45. 
From its explosive aromas of melon, spice, apricot and herb to its intense flavors of peach, melon and peppery spice, this wine’s quality is obvious. Rich and viscous in the mouth, with a long, dried-spice and mineral-laden finish, this is world-class dry Riesling.

27   Vall Llach 2000
Embruix
(Priorat)  $28. 
Inky-dark and dense, with exemplary cherry and berry fruit along with tons of earth, spice and terroir. At 15% it’s big, and you get more than ample blackberry and cherry fruit to chew on. The finish, meanwhile, is dark with espresso and leftover fruit. Big and boisterous, but right on the money.

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28   Weingut Johannishof 2003
Rudesheimer Berg Rottland
Riesling Spätlese
(Rheingau);  $26. 
Stony and minerally on the nose, followed by gentler whiffs of honey, then finally broad, sweet flavors of ripe apples and pineapples. Mouthfilling and soft, but with balanced acidity and a long, complex finish.

29   Fisher 2001
Coach Insignia
Chardonnay
(Sonoma County);  $32. 
This very complex wine is a blend of grapes from various parts of the county. It shows a myriad of flavors ranging from tropical tree fruits to limes and crisp, green apples, and has been well-oaked. The texture is creamy and opulent. Don’t chill it too much, because you’ll lose some of the high-end nuances.

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30   J. Bookwalter 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley);  $32.  375 ml. 
At first tight and a bit unyielding, it sends up little wafts of scent—cinnamon and spice—before slowly broadening out with classic Bordeaux notes of lead pencil, cedar and graphite. Lean but not mean, this shows the grip and polish of very skillful winemaking, married to superb fruit. Classic black cherry and cassis, with the acidity and lean muscularity that distinguishes the best Washington Cabs.

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