welcome to the fifty best wines of 2004

                       Presents

Page 4

31   Norton 2002
La Privada
(Mendoza);  $20. 
Norton’s proprietary house blend features a sensuous mix of Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec, all from the scintillating ’02 harvest. This is one of the best wines Norton has made in ages, if not in its history. Tobacco, tar and chocolate aromas accent the deep, saturated bouquet. And the flavors and feel are pure New World in that ripeness and drinkability take precedence over complexity.

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32   Neyers 2001
Cuvée d’Honeur
Syrah
(Napa Valley);  $45. 
From the Hudson Vineyard in Carneros, this is a very dark wine bursting with crème de cassis, chocolate, mint, smoke, vanilla and toast aromas. The flavors are similarly rich and unctuous, with great weight and a fabulous core of blackberries and spice. For all its size, it never loses its sense of balance and elegance.

33   Andrew Will 2002
Klipsun Vineyard
Merlot
(Red Mountain);  $45. 
Is this the finest single-vineyard Merlot in the country? It certainly can stake a claim to that distinction, with its bright, dense, vibrant scents of berry and cherry, its muscular tannins and deeply concentrated fruit flavors enhanced with the dark notes of earth and iron from Klipsun soil and the relentless wind that toughens the grape skins. Decant this one early.

34   Palazzo Rosso 1999
Brunello di Montalcino;  $75. 
The smoky bouquet is sleek and sly, with genuine leather and floral notes. It’s very classy and already into its development. The fruit is pure and dark, and the finish is what some might call “monster,” which is a good thing. A winner with all the right stuff. Hold three to four years before drinking.

35   Andrew Murray 2001
Roasted Slope
Syrah
(Santa Ynez Valley);  $32. 
For all its obvious power, this wine is elegant and stylish. The sweet cherry fruit is wrapped in a layer of lavender, thyme and sweet oak. The flavors coat the mouth and last for a long time. The underlying strength and staying power of this wine shows in the tannic finish. Best after 2007.

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36   José Maria da Fonseca 2001
Domini Plus
(Douro);  $26. 
A finely crafted wine, offering ripe dark cherries and plums along with sophisticated acidity and tannins. This top wine from the joint venture between J.M. da Fonseca and Cristiano van Zeller has elegance as well as a fine tarry aftertaste.

37   Morgan 2001
Garys’ Vineyard
Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands);  $35. 
Everybody wants grapes from this vineyard for its fabulous terroir, which usually yields wines of impeccable balance and lushness. This wine is light and delicate in structure, with beautifully firm acids and sweetly complex flavors of cherry pie, mocha and vanilla. It’s a pleasure to sip.

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38   93 Domaine de Villeneuve 2001 $32.
Vieilles Vignes
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape);  $32. 
From a biodynamic vineyard, this wine has pure, beautifully perfumed fruit. Aromas of herbs and wild flowers counterpoint the firm, huge, rich flavors, and ripe, black fruits. It is seductively ready to drink, but should age for at least 10 years.

39   Madrigal 2001
Petite Sirah
(Napa Valley);  $35. 
Starts off with rich aromas that are redolent of chocolate, coffee and black cherry. On the palate, it’s firm textured, framed in ripe tannins that highlight more cassis, earth, spice and complex herb flavors. Bright and long on the finish, this is a big, beautiful wine.

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40   Warwick 2004
Professor Black
Sauvignon Blanc
(Simonsberg Stellenbosch);  $18. 
Initially rather simple and sweet, offering ripe tropical-citrus fruit plus a round, soft feel, behind that veneer lurked an impressive wine. With time emerged Sauvignon Blanc’s brighter citrus and grass tanginess, and much higher apparent acidity. It’s full yet crisp, closing long with rich fruit and mild pepper notes. Grab now, but wait until 2005 to drink.

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