welcome to the fifty best wines of 2004

                 Presents

Page 1

1   PlumpJack 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville);  $58. 
Really first rate, fat, fleshy, flashy and sensual. Hard to exaggerate the beauty of the currant and cherry fruit, so ripe, polished and pure, and the sweet finesse of the tannins. In a few years the inherent structure will kick in, tightening the wine and guaranteeing it a long life.

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2   Fuligni 1999
Brunello di Montalcino;  $82. 
Anyone who loves great Sangiovese should snap up this star-quality wine. Always a personal favorite, the ’99 doesn’t disappoint. It’s lively and electric, with structure equal to the Tuscan fort in which it was tasted. As for flavors, look for overflowing blackberry, cola, mocha and more. A wine that can probably last for 15 years.

3   Louis Roederer 1997
Brut
(Champagne);  $63. 
This Champagne is rounded, rich, and powerful, with a fine sense of the red fruits of Pinot Noir. There are also almond flavors, creaminess and warmth. There is a touch of austere minerality from the low dosage and the lack of malolactic, which means it will age well over 10 years.

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4   Talley 2002
Pinot Noir
Rincon Vineyard  (Arroyo Grande Valley)  $48. 
Just beautiful. Smoky oak, chocolate, cherry, vanilla, sweet herbs, lavender, thyme, oriental spice, just goes on and on. Huge, rich, balanced and so smooth, bursting with ripe, sweet fruit. Gorgeous tannin-acid balance, and such a delicate mouthfeel.

5   95 Bruno Rocca 1999
Rabajà  (Barbaresco);  $85. 
Extraordinary stuff. The aromas practically defy description, packed with smoke, tobacco, cigar box and cured meat, all wrapped around a deep, rich core of black cherries. Picks up even more complexity in the mouth, adding vanilla, plums and dates in an expansive, mouthfilling experience, then—wham—the tannins hit home, sending you reeling and wondering when this wine will finally blossom. Great now, great 20 years from now.

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6   Ridge 2001
Chardonnay
(Santa Cruz Mountains);  $30. 
Amazingly intense and concentrated. Swamps the palate with pear and peach fruit, and a rich acidic structure. Oak plays a role in adding smoke, vanilla and sweet tannins.
Long and penetrating, lush and vital. Combines power and subtlety in a rare way.

7   Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2000
Termes (Toro);  $21. 
Soft, deep and pure, and a significant step up from the fine-in-its-own-right ’99. The bouquet of blackberry, bacon and herbs is open and welcoming, while the smoky cherry and bacon palate is wonderful. Finishes sweet and easy, with warmth, size and fine tannins. So supple and rich, yet packed with stuffing. A New World masterpiece that’s made for drinking over the next several years.

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8   Chateau St. Jean 2002
La Petite Etoile Vineyard
Fumé Blanc
(Russian River Valley);   $20. 
Showy stuff. It starts off with grassy aromas modulated with vanilla and smoke. In the mouth, the citrus, sweet fig, melon and spice flavors are delicious, and are balanced with firm, citrusy acids. Made Chard-style, with a full-bodied oakiness, this is a wonderful wine.

9   Simi 2001
Landslide Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley);  $33. 
This fabulously complex wine shows how you can merge power and nuance with the most complex and satisfying results. Cherries, dried herbs, vanilla and toasty oak, with ripe, lush tannins and great balance. Shows an exciting finesse throughout. Hard to exaggerate the quality.
A perfect companion at the table.

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10   Cockburn’s 2001
Quinta dos Canais Vintage Porto;  $NA. 
The blackest, inkiest wine of the tasting, it’s incredibly rich and dense. Round and mouthfilling, packed with mixed berries and chocolate. The vintage’s flesh is obscuring the wine’s structure for the moment, but this should age magnificently. Drink 2011–2040.

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