welcome to the fifty best wines of 2003

                 Presents

Page 2

11   Bollinger 1996
Grande Année
(Champagne);  $90. 
True to the Bolly style, this is a large-scaled Champagne, with outsized aromas and flavors of mushrooms and toast layered over a rich baked apple core. The mouthfeel is lush; the finish long. Decadent enough that there's no need for additional age.

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12   Etude 2000
Heirloom Pinot Noir
(Carneros);  $80. 
Everything about this modern, high-extract, high-alcohol wine is of the moment, which is why the Heirloom name seems questionable. What's not at issue is the lushness and overt beauty of this 14.9% poster boy for big wines. Chocolate, mint and hickory comprise the nose and the palate is all about pulsing blackberry, blueberry and fudge. A primo heavyweight for the new American palate.

13   M. Chapoutier 2000
Les Granites
(St. Joseph); $97. 
One reviewer calls it subtle and another calls it big-boned, and really, Les Granites is a bit of both. Its dusty, chalky tannins make for a glorious mouthfeel; underneath, there's a host of juicy berry flavors that grip the midpalate and linger long on the finish. Closes with ripe tannins, and some espresso and black pepper.

14   Merryvale 2001
Starmont Chardonnay
(Napa Valley);  $19. 
The real deal for fans of big, full-blown Chards. Starts with richly ripe, super-extracted flavors of peaches, pears, mangoes and other tropical fruits, and it's all generously wrapped in oak. The texture is creamy, the finish polished and rich.

15   Domaine de Chevalier 2000
Pessac-Léognan;  $60. 
Huge, deep purple-black color, and aromas of rich, spicy fruit give a sense of great power to this superbly intense wine. Licorice and rich tannins suggest complexity, while subtle acidity adds refinement.

16   Boscarelli 1999
35 Anni
(Toscana);  $51. 
Round and beautifully fragrant, with smoky nuances atop defined, elegant black fruit. What a stud this wine is; the palate is perfectly ripe, with a touch of oaky vanilla supporting first-class red and black fruits. The finish is clean, smooth and pleasant. It's a stellar super Tuscan, a leader in its field for sure. And it gets better every minute the bottle is open.

17   Alkoomi 2002
Sauvignon Blanc
(Frankland River);  $17. 
An excellent Sauvignon Blanc, with invigorating grass, gooseberry and lemon-lime flavors, and a mouthfeel that manages to be both zesty and viscous. Opens with permeating, fragrant melon, green apple and fresh herbal flavors.

18   Chateau Ste. Michelle
& Dr. Loosen 2002
Eroica Riesling
(Columbia Valley);  $20. 
This is consistently the most concentrated, complex and stylish Riesling made in Washington. In this excellent year it shows ripe pineapple, white peach and lime fruit, set up beautifully with crisp, defining acids. Balanced and intensely fragrant, with the alcohol a refreshing 12%. 10,000 cases made.

19   Tormaresca 2000
Bocca di Lupo
(Castel del Monte);  $28. 
How smooth is this luscious bruiser-a combination of 90% Aglianico and 10% Cab Sauvignon? Pull out the knife and fork and find out. The color is splendidly opaque, and the nose is prime and ready. The palate is packed with cherry, cassis, mint and menthol, and the finish is chewy, with mouthcoating tannins. Very pretty and wall-to-wall in terms of structure. From Antinori's Puglian operation.

20   Dolce 1999
Late Harvest Table Wine
(Napa Valley);  $75.  375 ml. 
Oh, how good this sweetie is. If you have just one white dessert wine this year, make it this rich, thick, unctuous wine, with its fabulous flavors of apricot marmalade, orange honey, pineapple, chutney, smoke, vanilla, toast, toasted hazelnut, the list goes on and on. Fills the mouth with velvety opulence, and the finish is very long. A special wine of very great distinction.

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