welcome to the fifty best wines of 2003

                 Presents

Page 1

1   Château Lynch-Bages 2000
Pauillac;  $100. 
Typical of Lynch-Bages in its sumptuous, rich style, this is a resounding success for the team of Jean-Michel Cazes. With its sweet fruit, opulent but balanced wood and red and black fruit flavors, it is a wine that will develop relatively quickly but will certainly age.

2   Shafer 1999 Hillside Select
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stags Leap District);  $150. 
The release of every '99 has been a cause to celebrate, and now, after nearly four years, comes Shafer's Hillside Select. It is, in one word, a masterpiece. If you're an intensity freak, it will knock you out with its laser focus of blackcurrant and black cherry fruit, easily able to withstand the heavy overlay of 100% new French oak that seasons it with vanilla and smoke. For all that richness, this is a wine of exquisite balance and subtlety. If it excites, it also intrigues and entices. This Cabernet will go down in the annals as a classic.

3   Fonterutoli 2000
Chianti Classico;  $26. 
Very dark, rich and chocolaty-and pretty darn oaky, too. But oh, what size and power. The nose is pure hickory smoke, leather and black fruit, while the palate overflows with cassis, black plum and pepper. The mouthfeel is silky yet aggressive, with big tannins and pulsating acids. And the coffee and cacao on the finish go on and on.

4   Château Margaux 2000
Margaux;  $400. 
If a wine can ever be perfect, this is as perfect as wine can get. Right from the beginning this was the wine of the vintage, and nothing has changed. Margaux was the last of the first growths to be bottled because it just needed that extra time in barrel. The wine now has huge, intense black cherry and blackberry fruits, and marvellous tannins that are sweet and powerful. To finish, the magnificent Margaux perfume of sandalwood and ripe fruit dominates, leaving an impression of finesse and power.

5   Rochioli 2002
Sauvignon Blanc
(Russian River Valley);  $24. 
Whether it's the age of the vines, the unique warm-cool vineyard location, or Rochioli's deft touch, this is always one of the best California Sauvignons. Citrusy-grassy, complexed with fig, pear and vanilla, and just the right touch of oak and cream from barrel fermentation. Rich, luxurious, crisp and as complete as California Sauvignon Blanc gets.

6   Hartford 2001
Hartford Vineyard Zinfandel
(Russian River Valley);  $34. 
Typical of Lynch-Bages in its sumptuous, rich style, this is a resounding success for the team of Jean-Michel Cazes. With its sweet fruit, opulent but balanced wood and red and black fruit flavors, it is a wine that will develop relatively quickly but will certainly age.

7   Penfolds 1998
Grange (South Australia);  $205. 
Though the nose on this wine is still somewhat closed, it's still remarkable. Individual notes (apart from eucalyptus and toast) aren't discernible; instead, it's an intense, penetrating sensation that fills the nose. Vanilla and coffee flavors are sumptuous foils to rich blackberries on the palate, which is muscular and plush as all get-out. Finishes long, with big but soft tannins. We can't wait to revisit it in 10-15 years, when the gems that are locked up tight now will sparkle.

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8   Dönnhoff 2001
Schlossböckelheimer
Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese (Nahe);  $42. 
Helmut Dönnhoff is at the top of his game. From its explosive nose of powdered quartz and fresh apple skin through the flavors of apple, peach, melon and mineral, this wine has it all. It's medium-weight-even a bit full-bodied for Riesling-but impeccably balanced. Great length completes the package. Simply put, a tour de force.

9   Sebastiani 1999
Merlot
(Sonoma County);  $17. 
Still dark and young after nearly four years, a big, brooding wine of considerable complexity and interest. Opens with big, lush flavors of blackberries and currants, chocolate and coffee, very dry and rich in fruity extract. Tannins are thick and intricately detailed. Quite delicious and impressive.

10   Mario Schiopetto 2001
Tocai
(Collio);  $35. 
There is an amazing medley of aromas and flavors in this powerful Tocai. Aromas of perfumed spring blossom, almonds follow through on the palate with flavors of pears, almonds and spice, with just a touch of pepper.

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